Thursday, June 30, 2016

Hershey PA 6/29/2106- Day One

In Hershey PA we set out for three separate destinations.  First we went to the Hershey Gardens. The Hershey Gardens were first opened as a 3 1/2 acre rose garden in 1937 by Milton Hershey.  By 1942 it had become a 23 acre botanical garden.  In addition to 5000 rose brushes on the property we really enjoyed all of the unusual mature trees.  A special highlight for us, however, was the Butterfly Conservatory.  The Conservatory grand opening was scheduled to be on the day we were going to leave Hershey.  What a pleasant surprise we were in for to find that we could have a first peek at the butterflies, prior to the Grand Opening.  What a lovely way to start our day.

Our second destination was to 'The Hershey Story', which is a museum for Hershey the man and also the company.  While the Hershey story is interesting, we felt that the museum could have been laid out a bit better.  That said, we still came away with knowing a whole lot more about Milton Hershey. 

Upon finishing the 4th grade, Milton Hershey's parents decided he had gotten enough of an education and needed to become employed learning a trade. He began employment as an apprentice printer, but was soon fired. His mother helped him get an apprentice job with the candy maker Joseph Royer. At just 19 years old, Hershey parted ways with Royer believing he could go it alone.  But alone was difficult and full of numerous failures over a period of almost 20 years. Finally he was successful in starting and running the Lancaster Caramel Company. Hershey, however, became fascinated with the Milk Chocolate industry. Milk Chocolate in the late 1800's was prohibitively expensive for the average person. Hershey was determined that he could bring Milk Chocolate to people at an affordable price and he sold his caramel company to set out and do that very thing.

The museum covers the development of his company and the automation that he incorporated. As interesting as this is, his vision was so much more than just chocolate. Hershey developed an entire town with recreation, culture and a sports arena too. It was a tight knit community and he succeeded in manufacturing by openly soliciting ideas from his manufacturing workers.

Milton and his wife Catherine were never able to have children. When his wife died in 1915, Milton donated his entire fortune to that date, 60 million, to a trust that would run the Milton Hershey school which is a 4000 acre school for children from disrupted homes (kindergarten-12th grade). Today the school owns 40% of the stock of Hershey Foods and controls 75% of the company voting shares. Hershey had donated, throughout his life, most of what he owned to the town and community. When he died in 1945 the sale of his personal possessions  brought a mere $20,000. His chocolate factory remains the largest in the world and its profits continue to make positive impacts in the Hershey community and elsewhere.

Our last excursion was to the Antique Automobile Club of America Museum.  Because we took so many pictures there we will follow with a day two post of Hershey, PA.


Note that we took a skip on the 'Hershey's Chocolate Factory Tour' ,a fake factory tour, that seems more geared for one's grand kids. Truth be told, Bob was concerned he would never be able to get the Willy Wonka style singing cows out of his head. To fully understand this concern of Bob's head to this link:  Hershey Chocolate Factory Tour


Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
We saw this guy hiding high up in a tree
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Gardens
Hershey Bar Mold


Wednesday, June 29, 2016

Monticello VA 6/27/2016


At Monticello, we took the behind the scenes tour which in addition to the first floor regular tour, includes floors 2 and 3 also.  Our impression is, if you are going to come here, there is so much more to see on the behind the scenes tour and you should just bite the bullet and do it to.  We squeaked into booking the behind the scenes tour a few days in advance,  but we could only get into their last tour of the day,  for our last day that we planned to be in the area.  It was hard to find information on just how much more time was needed to view the grounds. We planned for 4 hours total and our recommendation is if you do the behind the scenes tour you should plan at least 5 hours and possibly 6 hours total to see all that is there.  In our four hours, however, we did get on the outside Slave tour, and we also took the Garden tour prior to us going into the house on our behind the scenes tour. The grounds were closed after we finished our house tour. Best we can figure we missed a leisurely stroll around the plantation ,a full view of the basement where the kitchen, cellar etc duties took place, the museum, including the 15 min video, and the gift shop.  That said, prior research and four hours of very full touring, well came away feeling like we really took in a lot.

Monticello we have all grown up seeing (some realize and some do not) as it pictured on the back of our US nickle and also on the back of most $2 bills.  The Monticello Plantation was owned and designed by Thomas Jefferson and was a 40 year project for him.  At one point Thomas Jefferson had a total of 26 family members living in the home with him as well as around 200 slaves living along  Mulberry Row which is located on the 5000 acres of the plantation property.   Approximately 175 of his slaves were acquired through inheritance and over the course of his life he would have over 600 different slaves, most from natural increase of his enslaved families.  Thomas Jefferson was quoted as saying in references to his slaves: "I consider a woman that brings a child every two years 2 years as more profitable than the best man of the farm for what she produces is in addition to the capital  while his labors disappear in mere consumption".  Originally his slaves were housed in dormitories and eventually he built small slave houses which it is believed was done to encourage the population increase of his slaves.  While he was not known to sell a lot of his slaves, he has said to have gifted them to people as wedding gifts and such.  Jefferson's relationship with slavery is certainly riddled with contradictions. While his despicable actions as it pertains to slaves- his ownership of slaves and no he was not known to be a 'better' slave owner (if there is such a thing) -makes it difficult to accept him as a 'Founding Father' ironically it is his eloquent words-"All men are created equal" that seem to have given this country the fortitude to work towards ending this injustice (intended or not).

Wow the things we learned.  I know I can not cover it all but it is fascinating for sure.    Slaves had 3 major fears- beatings, separation and death.  We were surprised to learn that death was not what they feared the most, but rather separation from their family members was unbearable.  For such an educated man as Thomas Jefferson, we were amazed that he never seemed to understand the emotional ties that the slaves had, probably because he only saw them only as capital.  Many slaves were quoted as seeing themselves as having 2 lives.  The first life took place from can't see to can't see and their second life happened during those hours they escaped later with their family.  From what we were told, Jefferson just never got this, especially because he could have used it to his advantage.  Slaves would run to find family members, more than any other reason and from what we heard, he remained clueless as to why they would take off.

Slaves ages 10-16- Girls went to the fabric making mills, boys to the joinery or to the black smith shop. If girls shined they might be promoted to work in the house or to train  younger slaves on the looms. Boys if they succeeded might train other young slaves in blacksmithing or joinery.  All that 'failed' during these six years got sent to the fields to work.  

A tangled web of relatives!  Like wow.  After Jefferson's wife died in 1782 he is said (supported now by DNA evidence) to have taken up relations with Sally Hemmings who was an inherited slave, very much his junior, who later bore at least 6 of his children.  But she was not just any slave.  She was the half sister to his deceased wife!  Yes, his deceased wife's father bore her from another slave Elizabeth Hemmings and Thomas got Sally as inheritance (along with Elizabeth of course). All the children Sally bore were said to pass as white and are believed, by most historians, to be fathered by Thomas.  I plan to read more on this relationship which is said to be like a common law marriage, but of course could not be seen a such at that time.  Jefferson is said to have set free all his children (from Sally) in his will but not Sally, as she would be difficult to justify.  His daughter from his marriage, however, is said to have given Sally 'time served', something that only designated that an owner would not pursue her further.  His children on the other hand were all highly skilled and that enabled him to request their freedom in VA.

Today there is an ongoing opposition by the  'Jefferson' family descendants to acknowledge the Hemming Family connection and to disallow any Hemming family members from being buried at Monticello. Jefferson descendants, after the DNA evidence came out have now begun to argue that Sally's children had to be from Thomas's brother.  But the oral histories passed down over the years just do not support that.  From what we were told, every year they take a vote regarding if Hemmings can be buried at Monticello and there is sadly still strong opposition concerning the Hemmings descendants.

The architecture of the home, on another note, especially inside is stunning and includes 12 skylights, something not yet seen in the United States when they were included.  Also included in the home is a beautiful large dome.  Incorporating this dome into this existing home was no easy task.  (Jefferson completely remodeled the house) Chris Kern has written a short essay on this subject worth reading.   Chris Kern Essay  The home was designed in a way that from the exterior hides that  the home is three stories tall and also includes a full basement.  Jefferson felt that stairs were a waste of floor space and the two staircases are only 2 feet wide, very steep (9 inch rise) and tucked away where they will not be seen.  Thomas Jefferson designed and redesigned this home over the course of 40 years. Within the home are many unusual additions, too many to list them all. Double doors  were designed to both open at once with the pull of one handle.  The entry clock was run by the weight of cannon balls, and the height of the cannon balls indicated what day of the week it was, inscribed on the wall (note this is not linear).  This last one, he made a calculation error in that he had to cut a hole in the floor in order to be able to pick up the last day of the week which was shown in the basement below.  Most rooms had alcove beds and so many of the rooms had huge windows and skylights and were constructed on an octagonal shape. Pictures are not allowed to be taken within the home, however, a few interior pictures can be seen at the following link:Monticello Interior  Jefferson is said to have taken great pains to minimize the vision of slave presence.  Mulberry Row was not easily seen from the home windows. Additionally, the dining area had a revolving door with shelves to place all the food on.  This enabled feeding this large household with only 2 slaves visible.

The Jefferson home is full of innovations of the day.  He had a contraption that wrote a copy of his notes as he was writing.  He had the revolving service door Service Door, a revolving reading stand, spherical sundial, and a wheel cipher for decoding messages.  Probably most interesting, however, is how he handled various architectural challenges as they presented in his remodel of his  home.

At his death,  Jefferson was hugely in debt. Monticello, all the furnishings and all of the slaves went on the auction block.  It is said that the home by then was in huge need of repair.  Eventually Monticello was purchase by a huge admirer of Jefferson-Commodore Levy.  It is said that much credit goes to the Commodore that Monticello was saved from ruin.  In 1923, Levy sold the property to the Thomas Jefferson Foundation.  Today, the home is furnished with about 60% of the original furnishings.




Monticello, The House
From this picture it is hard to realize that the house is 3 stories
plus a basement.
'Modern' Slave house
This Outdoor Sitting Room looks out over the Vinyards
and Countryside
Fish Pond to store caught fish
Like beats trying to keep them fresh
Canterbury Bells
Love Iles Bleeding Seeds
Strawflower
Narrow Leafed Cornflower
Sunflower


Monday, June 27, 2016

Staunton VA 6/26/2016


We had just one day available to visit around the Staunton, VA area.  We were really on the go but got to take in so much.  

We began with a car tour along the 'Sky Line Drive' in the Shenandoah National Park.  This park was dedicated by President Franklin Roosevelt on July 3, 1936.  We were surprised to learn that originally there was an attempt to ban all  blacks from this National Park and instead it was decided to develop racially segregated areas within this National Park (restrooms, picnic areas, lodges) with the area at Lewis Mountain being designated as the Negro only area. This was the norm at this National Park until 1950 when the park was finally racially integrated.  Most of the park access follows a ridge trail, used many years ago by both Indians and early settlers.  The views are spectacular and the trees are ever so abundant.

In the actual city of Staunton, VA we visited the birth house of President Woodrow Wilson and also his Presidential Library.  Sorry no inside pictures were allowed.  The Woodrow Wilson Presidential library is privately funded because only the presidential libraries from the administrations of Hubert Hover forward receive funds from the federal government for library maintenance. Woodrow Wilson we learned is our only President to have ever earned a PhD. and amazingly he accomplished that with a learning disability that today is believed was dyslexia.  Named at birth, Thomas Woodrow Wilson, he would later completely drop the Thomas name.  His father, the Reverend Wilson, made their home in the church Manse  which is also where 'Tommy' Woodrow was born .  We were surprised to learn that the church in addition to providing their family home also provided the family with 3 leased slaves one was a female cook, another a female nanny and the third a male manual laborer. We asked the tour guide about the church's provision of leased slaves and we were told this was not uncommon in this area at the time (both the leasing of slaves and the provision of slaves by the church).

Young 'Tommy' Woodrow was unable to read anything until the age of 10, but born with a well educated preacher father, he was continually pushed, despite his learning challenges.  His father is said to have taken him on learning tours and required him to write and provide speeches about these tours.  It is said, that he was pushed to write, talk and repeat until he performed both perfectly.  Woodrow Wilson eventually attended Princeton, got his law degree from the University of Virginia and his PhD. in Political Science from John Hopkins University. 

President Wilson, besides being the only US President to earn a PhD., he is also the last US president to travel his inauguration ceremony in a horse drawn carriage.  He is credited with starting both the Federal Reserve and the Federal Trade Commission, establishing child labor laws and helping in the negation of the Treaty of Versailles.  In 1919 he received the Nobel Peace Prize  for being the lead architect behind the League of Nations and is thought to have minimized our involvement as much as possible during WWI.  He also pushed for Women's right to vote which was passed during his second term.  Less than an hour from here is Monticello which we are headed to tomorrow.

Shenandoah National Park
Shenandoah National Park
Shenandoah National Park
Shenandoah National Park
Shenandoah National Park
President Woodrow Wilson Birth Home
Staunton VA
President Woodrow Wilson Birth Home
Staunton VA
First Presbyterian Church
Church of Woodrow Wilson's Father, Rev. Joseph Ruggles Wilson
Staunton VA


Friday, June 24, 2016

Charlotte NC 6/23/2016


The weather in Charlotte, North Carolina is quite warm.  To beat the heat we headed out for an indoor activity and that was the Levine Museum of the New South.  We found this to be a very well put together museum.  We always find appreciation in museums that are well organized, concise, successful at gaining the interest of all ages and also create an interest for people to want to research more after they leave.  We felt that this museum hit that mark well.  The center piece exhibit is entitled 'Cotton Fields to Skyscrapers'.  This exhibit is a social historical journey through the economies that transformed this area from having the small farms following the Civil War, to developing America's main textile factory region, to now being the second largest American banking center.

The Civil War abolished slavery and also marked the break up of the large plantations into plots to be farmed by both white and black sharecroppers.  The large number of Cotton sharecroppers eventually drove the price of cotton from 25 cents a pound in 1860 down to 5 cents a pound in 1890.  The small sharecropper farmer became more and more in debt and unable to survive.  At the same time, the owners of the farmlands increased their economic power and began to invest in the building of textile factories.  The very people that gained their wealth off of the tenant farmers, lured these same farmers to their factories with promises of a new future and an escape from poverty. 

While most of the lives of these newly made factory workers improved from the desperate poverty they left, the owners of these factories were known to exploit these people once again.  And this new 'opportunity' was not available to the blacks.  While blacks were allowed to be sharecroppers they were not allowed to work in the Mill factories.

Over 90 % of the mill factory workers lived in mill villages that often consisted of 100 homes with the Loray factory planning 400 homes.  Each home was 3-4 rooms with a common area in the village to pump water and usually a church too. Mill owners intentionally built their mills with adjoining mill villages away from cities.  This enabled the mill owners to keep closer tabs on their workers and to exercise greater control over them than they might otherwise have.  If a mill worker disagreed with their manager they not only risked losing their job but risked losing their family home too.  Often the mill workers would only be paid in mill coins - coins that could only be used at the mill mercantile. The mill owner wanted their 'employees' to work hard and be well rested, and the owners would rap on a worker's door if they saw lights on after 9 PM.  Oh and the church was well funded too by the mill owner, and known to only preach factory owner friendly sermons.  Most in the family were required to work.  The men did factory manual stuff, the women did weaving and spinning and the children as young as 6 swept floors.  While the mill owners were in many ways exploiting the factory worker families, the mill community was tight knit and most felt that their lives had improved, or at least in the early years they felt this way.  

This prosperity waned, however, once mill managers began what was known as the 'stretch out system'.  This system required mill workers to produce more and get paid less and was the precursor to one of this area's largest labor union strikes, the Loray Mill Strike of 1929.  The strike began with 1800 workers walking off the job.  After a month, many of the workers could hold out no longer, but a few hundred workers continued to strike. Evicted from their mill homes, tent cities were erected nearby.  People were killed including the police chief.  And in the end, the union and its workers lost, with working conditions remaining basically the same.  The strike is a sad memory in this part of the country, so much so that even today only 11% of wage and salary workers in the state are union members. 

At this museum we also learned more history concerning some people with common names.  Stuart Crammer is credited with inventing air conditioning. However, his first efforts were not to make workers comfortable, but rather to optimize cotton mill production.  Cannon, as in Cannon towels built his first towel factory here in 1894.  T.A. Tompkins is credited with discovering something to do with all those cotton seeds, create cotton seed oil.  James B. Duke as in Duke energy began as the first company to mass produce cigarettes and eventually the first to realize that dams could be linked to Cotton Mills for energy. Belk, the nation's largest privately owned department store was begun by William Belk in 1888, just outside of Charlotte.  Today they operate 299 stores in 16 states but primarily concentrated in the Carolinas.

The last economy to emerge that was covered in this exhibit was the banking industry.  Charlotte was one of the first cities to allow branch banking.  Later, in the late 70's, North Carolina National bank tested a legal loop hole to cross state lines when they purchased some bank branches in Florida.  This move was upheld by the courts and is credited with being the founders of interstate banking. Today Charlotte is the second largest financial center in the United States.  

Finally, there was a visiting exhibit entitled 'NUEVOlution Latinos and the new South'.  Included in the exhibit was some of the works of Rosalia Torres-Weiner who is an art activist who is trying to make a difference in the lives of immigrant families. We both felt this exhibit did a good job of covering both the spoken and unspoken challenges of immigration for both legal and illegal Latinos as well as the resulting social issues of families being torn apart by partial family deportations, and children being deported that don't know any life or language other than that of the US.  The immigration issues we face are so much more complex than many realize and this exhibit touches on many of these complexities.  

Last we drove out to see Metal Metamorphosis.  Metal what you say?  It is a 22 foot high metal sculpture constructed of 14 tons of horizontal plates that move intermittently.  The artist is David Cemy, a Czech artist.  Below the picture is a link to a video of Metal Metamorphosis in action.

Cool Monument outside the Museum
Cool Monument outside the Museum
Cool Monument outside the Museum
What neat benches near the New South Museum
What neat benches near the New South Museum
Cannon' first bath towel...no terry cloth yet
1920
Wow, like check out the length of that christening gown
Mill Villages Coins
Banking in North Carolina
Sort of a cool display with a full size Man (in white)
NUEVOlution 
NUEVOlution 
Metal Metamorphosis.
See it in motion at this link:

Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Savannah GA 6/20-21/2016


We spent two short days in Savannah, GA. What beautiful southern charm and history fills this city. This time to Savannah we set out to see a few things new.

When James Oglethorpe founded Savannah as the Capital of his newly chartered colony of Georgia he was into the number four.  Four squares were to be built and four Utopian ideals were to be up held- No rum, no slavery, no lawyers and no Papists.  Georgia was the buffer between the colonies and Spanish Florida and Oglethorpe was afraid Catholics would be Spanish spies.  In 1748, the ban on Catholics was lifted (the liquor ban was lifted in 1742).  The Haitian Revolution in the late 1700's brought many Haitians not only to Louisiana but also to the Savannah area and most of them were Catholic. They along with the French are credited with starting the first Catholic Parish in Savannah, laying the first cornerstone for Catholics in Savannah in 1799.  The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist has a history of struggle that includes major hurricane damage  in  the mid 1800's and a devastating fire in 1898. The present Cathedral was rebuilt and dedicated in October 1900.  The inside is beautiful and the numerous stained glass windows, all from Austria are spectacular.

The Pink house was built in 1771 for James Habersham Jr., an early cotton factor in Savannah.  It is  one of the few buildings that survived the fire of 1796.  It now operates as a restaurant and tavern.

We had lunch at Mrs. Wilkes. A fun place, family style with close to 15 at each table.  Worth an hour wait in line?  Maybe when the weather is cooler.  But we were still glad we went.  Young Sema Wilkes started this boarding house in 1943.  Her granddaughter, who we met, is still running the place today.  Always fun to enjoy a bit of history, especially while enjoying a good meal.

Day two we went to Wormsloe and Tybee Island.

Wormsloe is the oldest standing structure in Savannah.  As you enter Wormsloe you traverse in your vehicle through over 400 Live Oak trees (1.5 miles long) that canopy the road. These trees were planted in the 1890's to commemorate the birth of of a son.  The Oak grove is incredibly picturesque.  Along a short trail is the Tabby ruins.  Wormsloe Plantation was originally established by Noble Jones in 1736.  It is located on the Isle of Hope in GA.

We also headed out to Tybee Island.  The dunes have been protected ( a good thing) and almost every ave. to the beach has a very long suspended walkway to get to the beach. There is a huge beach area and it is always fun to see the kids rollicking on the shore.

We also visited the Lighthouse on Tybee Island.  This is the first lighthouse constructed in Georgia.  It was done so at the direction of Orglethorpe.  The bottom 60 feet of the lighthouse date back to 1773 and the top 94 feet was added in 1867.  The walls of the tower at the base are an impressive 12 feet thick.  They claim that its light can be seen 18 miles out to sea.  This lighthouse is one of a few colonial era lighthouses still in operation today.

Across the street from the light house is the Fort Screven Battery.   It is quite large.  From 1897 - 1947 this battery was an integral part of Georgia's coastal defense.  

We are headed tomorrow to Charlotte, NC.  While this was a short stay, Savannah is always a beautiful place to visit and we highly recommend this city on your travels.



The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
The Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
What a beautiful organ!
The Pink House
Fun Lunch
Wormsloe, GA
Wormsloe, GA
Tabby Ruins, Wormsloe, GA
Tabby Ruins, Wormsloe, GA
Beach at Tybee Island, GA
Seagull (like check out his tail feathers) at Tybee Island, GA
Battery on Tybee Island
Tybee island Lighthouse.  It was the first on the Georgia Coast 
erected in 1736, later restored.