Wednesday, August 10, 2016

St. Anthony, Newfoundland 8/9-10/2016


We made a small change in our travel plans as we were not able to get on the ferry to Labrador when we were originally booked into St. Barb.  We swapped the cities of St. Barb and St. Anthony, and what a surprise that ended up being for us.  In St. Anthony we found there was still an iceberg in the area and that iceberg is expected to be gone within days (when we were originally planned to be here).  What a beautiful surprise to get to see the iceberg along with many Humpback whales and a lone Harp seal too (most of these seals have already headed back north).  What an exciting first day in St. Anthony's we had!

There are so many whales in this area.  We drove along various coastal coves and saw so many whales in the distance.  A real treat for sure.  While here, we also drove up to L'Anse aux Meadows, which is believed by most archaeologists to be the first landing site of Leif Erickson.  The village was discovered by two Norwegians, Helge and Anne Ingstad.  They did not just stumble upon this finding.  These individuals spent many years studying the Icelandic sagas, piecing together the information and then looking for the landmarks they read about.  In 1960, they had success when they came upon an area that the locals always assumed were Indian ruins.  Positive proof of Viking relics were found in the building outlined archaeological digs.  While the Vikings are not believed to have lived here, they are said to have kept this outpost of several buildings for approximately 5 years around the year 1000.  The finding of this evidence in the 60's, finally answered the question regarding if these sagas were fictional or actually true.  Just recently, another possible Viking location may have been found at Point Rosee.  Interesting how many new discoveries are waiting for us to still find Point Rosse. The L'Anse aux Meadows National Historic site is a UNESCO site as it is believed to be the first time humans originating from the Africa area made the full global connection with the aboriginal people of North America.

As we traveled along many of the outlying roads we would see these random piles of wood with a number and also random fenced gardens.  We inquired and found out that for about $40 Newfoundlanders can obtain a permit to cut wood (the number is not a phone number but rather a permit number).  They typically do not have enough land to store all this wood, so the honest people that they are, their wood is piled along the 'Crown' owned roads and they head there to get it when needed.  Also, they are allowed to grow gardens along the 'Crown' owned roads.  The areas near the ocean are not conducive to growing things (wind and poor soil), so they head about 5 mile out, pick an area, erect a fence to keep out the Caribou and Moose and plant their gardens.  Most gardens are mainly root vegetables such as potatoes, beets, turnips etc.

In the town of St. Anthony we visited the Grenfell house and museum.  Grenfell, a physician and Missionary, was from England and came to the Labrador/Newfoundland area in 1892.  What he found was a population of about 30,000 people with no medical care at all available.  His life story is an interesting one and he is credited with bring medical care here, orphanages, schools, religion and much more.  For 48 years he personally provided medical care to the locals.  He is a hero of sorts for Newfoundlanders and he was knighted by the King in 1927.  We enjoyed learning about him, his family and his various works.  His home was totally filled with gifts from people he helped over the years.  Of further interest, he has been memorialized in stained glass at the National Cathedral in Washington DC.  Grenfell  

Next to the Grenfell House is the Labrador Grenfell Health Hospital.  We took a short peek inside their lobby to view the absolutely beautiful Ceramic Murals of Jordi Bonet, created in 1967.  The murals surround the lobby and they are all ceramic and span from the floor to the ceiling.  We are headed to St. Barb in the morning.

  
Newfoundland Trivia- Pancake Day, in Newfoundland is on the same day as Mardi Gras and holds several similarities.  In Newfoundland, eggs were forbidden during lent and pancakes contain eggs so on what others called Fat Tuesday, Newfoundlanders got their fill of pancakes.  And similar to King cakes that hide the baby, Newfoundlanders put coins, or other thin objects in the pancakes to surprise people. In some areas, if you find a coin it meant you would be rich, a button that you would be a tailor or a housewife, a nail you would be a carpenter or marry one, and finding a holy item you would be a priest or a nun.  Pancake day was observed by both Protestants and Catholics alike.

Humpback Whale
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Humpback Whale
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
2 Humpback Whales
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Humpback Whale
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Beautiful Coastal Bird
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Harp Seal on Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Harp Seal on Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Harp Seal on Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Iceberg
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Site Where Leif Erikson is Believed to have Bedded Down
Norse Sod Covered House (Replica)
Wood Piles along 'Crown' Land
Gardens Along 'Crown' Land
Such Beautiful Flowers
Grenfell Museum
Jordi Bonet Murals
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Jordi Bonet Murals
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Grenfell House
St. Anthony, Newfoundland
Two Walrus tusks and Three Whales Teeth
Grenfeld House
St. Anthony, Newfoundland,


Sunday, August 7, 2016

Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland 8/5-7/2016


There are few places in the world where one can actually walk upon the Earth's Mantle and we did exactly that when we hiked with a park ranger in the Tablelands located in Gros Morne National Park,  Newfoundland.  We walked upon the various peridotite rocks.  These very rocks originally formed the Earth's mantle that was beneath the ancient Lapetus Ocean floor.  Approximately 450 Million years ago, when Europe, Africa and North America collided, this Lapetus Ocean closed, forcing a portion of the earth's mantle to the Earth's surface.  From this the Tablelands were formed. The Tablelands looking a bit like a scorched  desert are actually covered with what is know as peridotite.  Peridotite is rock from the Earth's mantle, it is void of nutrients and contains high concentrations of iron, magnesium, chromium, and nickel .  The rock's has high iron content is what gives these rocks their orange color, as these rocks are literally rusting away.  There are few plants and most are rare that have become able to survive in the tablelands area, as it takes a rare plant to be able to survive the toxic metals, lack of nutrients, freezing environment and high velocity winds. On our hike, though the names have left us, the ranger brought us over these earth mantle rocks to show us several of these plants (we were instructed to be very careful not to step on any was many, though small, could be decades old).  Our favorite was a moss that looks hard, but when you touch it, it feels like a large, yet very dense sponge.  We were told, that this sponge like moss is what is creating the waterfall and flow of water from the top of the table.  The rocks that are near the water, many we were shown have formed a green serpentine. We were so glad we took the ranger led hike as the geology in this area is unique and the ranger did a good job sharing her knowledge.

Also while in Gros Morne we visited many other interesting areas including Rocky Harbour, Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse, the Norris Point area, the Wildlife Museum and the Bonne Bay Marine Center.    The Wildlife museum gave us a chance to see wildlife of the area up close and the Marine Center too had live species from this arctic area.  While we leave for St. Barbe tomorrow, we will return here again in 2 weeks when we head back south once again.  On that return we are booked to take the Fjord trip (Western Brook Pond) which we are looking very forward to.

Teri is reading along our travels a book that defines Newfoundland terms and lore.  So as we travel and post our Newfoundland journeys we have decided to finish each post with a bit of Newfoundland trivia.  We hope that our reader's enjoy.

Newfoundland Trivia- We start with one of the most well known customs here, Mummering which is a 12 days of Christmas tradition.  Friends dress in disguise and often head out in groups.  If a group of Mummers are invited into a house they are supposed to perform in some way such as dance, music or comedy. The tradition is thought to have come from England and Ireland.  The tradition is making a larger come back after the introduction of the Mummers song in 1982 Mummers Song


Tableland
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Rare Arctic Succulent
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Arctic Plant in the Earth's Mantle
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Green Serpentine on Earth's Mantle Rocks
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
The Tickle
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Neddy Harbour
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Killick (How anchors were made before metals were common)
Newfoundlanders used to say that a pregnant woman had
'A rock in her killick' (instead of  a bun in the oven)
Rocky Harbour Wildlife Museum
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Blue Lobster
Bonne Bay Marine Center
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland
Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse
Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland



Thursday, August 4, 2016

Cape Ray, Newfoundland 9/2-3/2016


The day has finally arrived.  We pulled out of our campsite at 8 AM headed to Newfoundland!  The ferry wait was 2 hours but everyone in line came out of their vehicles to visit.  They were excited too, so the time passed quickly.  The ferry loading is a great setup with separate upper roads built where the passenger cars  load the ship on  several decks above us big guys (RV's and commercial trucks).  The loading deck is tight and we were placed next to a large tanker.  Tiger had to stay in our rig.  We were a bit concerned as the trip is 8 hours and once the ship was on its way, we were no longer allowed on the vehicle deck to check on him.  But all that concern was really for us, as we found him fast asleep on our bed when we arrived in the Newfoundland port.

We were so impressed with the ferry.  It surpassed our greatest expectations for comfort and enjoyment.  We had reserved seats on the 9th deck, which provided us  large leather recliners, a large table between us and power and USB ports.  The windows in the cabin were large and gave us a wonderful view of our adventure ahead.  Each seat had headphone ports with individual channel adjustments to choose the various TV's in the cabin.  There was a wonderful dining room with very good food, a snack bar with hot dogs and sandwiches and a waffle/ice cream bar too.  We have ridden a few ferries and we were so impressed as none other even came close.

Some time after 6 PM (10 hours after joining the ferry line) we excitedly saw our new land to explore, Newfoundland.  While difficult to visualize with an explanation, our pulling into the port was an incredible thing to watch.  The ship Captain ends up backing this huge ship in, missing a small island by what looks like about 12 inches.  Once in, the unloading was quick and us big guys were the first  to disembark.  

We were in our campsite by 7 PM, having booked close to the port.  Our next morning we set off to explore.  We had not planned anything special for this close to port location and just set off for the day down roads close to where we were staying.  And Wow!  Seriously, every direction we looked,  was beautiful, green and unique.

Shortly after leaving our campsite we came across the Table Mountains.  The Table Mountains are 1700 feet in elevation.  They at times have some huge winds we were told (over 100 miles/hr) and the locals told us this is why they shut the railroad down (rail cars being blown off the tracks).  But the mountains are green and beautiful to look at for sure.

Next stop was Grand Codroy Estuary.  We walked along the shore and enjoyed the birds.  The Arctic Tern appeared to be doing this dance in the air with an incredible racket to accompany his dance. Rather interesting to watch.

Next up, we stopped in Port aux Basques for lunch.  Wow their streets are narrow.  An elderly man fell in front of Teri (while Bob was parking the truck).  She asked his wife if she wanted help.  Teri lifted the man and we were all so happy that he was only concerned about his dusty clothes and had not broken anything.  Lunch included, local fishcakes, which were good.

After lunch we were off to travel more.  Next we came upon Isle aux Morts.  We took a break from enjoying the breath taking views to talk with a couple of locals walking along the road.  Teri was just dying to know what all the streamers across everyone's yards were for.  The local told us it was Coming Home for the city of Isle aux Morts.  Every 5 years they celebrate Isle aux Morts 'Coming Home' where family members return to the town for a huge festival.  We of course were invited (Newfoundlander's are oh so friendly). Everything is free, games, food etc and the woman's granddaughter was sure to let us know that drinks, however, are $2.  The town was ablaze with excitement but even more than the festival spirit, we were touched at how much the locals love and continue to appreciate the beauty around them and how touched they are to feel the love we have for this beauty too.  We thanked them for the invite, but explained we were headed up the coast the next day.  

Next thing we literally stumbled upon was a short hike to Baracholis Falls. Like how could we pass this up?  On the way to the falls we were amazed by all the miniature foliage in this semi-tundra like area.  We found it to be both interesting and beautiful.

After the falls, we decided we were this far so we should continue on to the Rose Blanche Lighthouse.  The lighthouse is unusual as it is entirely built from granite.  Completed in 1871, it began operation in 1873 and during its 67 year operation, there were a total of 5 light keepers.  This lighthouse was like none other that we have visited and the location was so incredibly beautiful.  The road getting here was not great, but wow how we were rewarded.  And to our surprise, the city of Rose Blanche was busy setting up for their 10 year homecoming celebration. 

What a wonderful first day, but wait....arriving back at our campground (JT Cheeseman) there was more.  At the campground we visited the Cape Ray Beach and put our toes in the cold ocean water. We visited Big Falls and also the Cape Ray Lighthouse.  The site of the Cape Ray Lighthouse was interesting.  There we learned about the Dorset people.  They were Arctic hunter/gathers.  They are believed to have lived in the area 1200-1800 years ago, and their North American lines come from 4500 years ago in the Siberia area.  They relied upon the harvesting of sea animals for their survival. Cape Ray Investigations

Wow, for a first day in Newfoundland, with nothing planned, so much did we see.  And we thought this first day would be a slow day.  We are off tomorrow to Gros Morne National Park tomorrow.

Waiting to Load the Ferry in North Sydney, Nova Scotia
Entering the Vehicle Deck, Ferry to Newfoundland
Sharing Tight Quarters in the Vehicle Area with a Tanker
Reserved Ferry Seating-Great Comfort and a Great View too
Saying Good Bye to Nova Scotia as We Pull Away From the Dock
Our First Sighting of Newfoundland from the Ferry
Look at All That Green!
Heading into Port aux Basques, Newfoundland
We will Depart from the Bottom of the Ship
With the Large Trucks.  Passenger Cars Depart
On the Upper Road on the Left
The Coastline of Port aux Basques, Newfoundland

Table Mountains. 1700 feet.  Know to have Gale Force Winds
Exceeding 100 Miles/Hour
Savannah Sparrow
Grand Codroy Estuary, Newfoundland
Artic Tern
Grand Codroy Estuary, Newfoundland
Artic Tern Impressing the Ladies
Grand Codroy Estuary, Newfoundland
 Grand Codroy Estuary, Newfoundland
 Grand Codroy Estuary, Newfoundland
Isle aux Morts, Newfoundland
Five Year Coming Home Celebration
Isle aux Morts, Newfoundland
Five Year Coming Home Celebration
Isle aux Morts, Newfoundland
Isle au Morts, Newfoundland
 Baracholis Falls, Newfoundland
Along the Path to Baracholis Falls, Newfoundland
 Rose Blanche, Newfoundland
Rose Blanche Lighthouse, Newfoundland
Rose Blanche Lighthouse Interior, Newfoundland
 Big Falls, Newfoundland
Cape Ray Beach, Newfoundland
Cape Ray Lighthouse, Newfoundland