Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia 8/ 1-5 /2015


In 1753 Lunenburg was founded by the British as the second colonial outpost in Nova Scotia.  Seventy percent of the buildings in the town are from the 18th and 19th centuries.  It is a United Nations, Educational and Scientific site (UNESCO), one of only two urban areas  in Canada or the United States to be so honored.  While here we enjoyed the food, the town, a great heritage play and a also a lot of the surrounding area.

Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia was intended to be a short  sightseeing venture right next to Lunenburg, but we met a wonderful local out walking and talked with him for hours.  Bob Browne, is a wonderful, funny and knowledgeable man who taught us so much about so many things.  One thing he told us about was the Lunenburg Bump on buildings-a five sided dormer window on the second floor that overhangs the first floor.  It seems that in the early days, these bumps would be strategically positioned on a building.  The resident would shine a  red or green light brightly in its bump window (depending on their location in relation to the harbor channel )and the Lunenburg bump would serve as sort of a lighthouse (prior to them having real lighthouses).   While originally thought up for the ships, it was soon a regular architecture element on houses in Lunenburg.  Bob Browne told us about the Knickle family that not only built ships in the area for many generations, but also many of the houses.  We were standing in front of one of these houses as he shared his tales.  Bob Browne told us tales of the area, tales of the recording studio business in California and even tales of Egypt, living there at 10 with his father.  Bob Bowne was once a music producer in the Santa Monica area and now has dual citizenship (US and Canada).  He shared with us about producing records on white vinyl in the 70's and told us many stories too about his production of among others, the California Smoker album. California Smoker.  He was a joy to talk with and gave great local restaurant recommendations as well.  And like so many we have met in our Canadian travels, he told us which house was his and welcomed us to come visit on a return trip.

Next we were off for a lovely lunch at Mahone Bay,  a quaint town with great shops and a wonderful view for lunch.  We visited the many shops and Teri tried Haskap Berries and said they were quite good.   Haskap Berries

Sort of in reverse, we spent our last day in actual Lunenburg, first at the St. John's Anglican Church, then at the Fisheries Museum and then finishing off the day with the show Glimpses.  

The St. John's Anglican Church, established in 1753, is the second oldest church of English Origin in all of Canada.  The architecture, known as Carpenter Gothic is beautiful in all directions both inside and outside.  In 2001 the church sustained a terrible fire.  An incredible restoration project was undertaken and during that restoration,  the mystery of the stars were discovered.  I will not ruin the surprise.....take the few minutes to uncover the mystery at this Discovery Channel Segment.  Discovery Channel

The Fisheries Museum contains a large complex of historic buildings, an aquarium, theater exhibits and old vessels on the dock to board and view.  And, we learned more about the Cod fishing industry while here. In 1497 John Cabot wrote " the sea there is full of fish that can be taken not only with nets but with fishing-baskets."  By the 1540's this area became a full blown cod fishing industry. The English lacking salt tdrried their cod in the sun on fish flakes and the French with large stores of sea salt preserved their cod with salt.  The museum did a good job of covering the industry from ocean to market, spanning the early 1500's to present.  As fishing methods improved over the years, the number of Atlantic Cod became frightfully endangered.  After a more than 20 year moratorium in Canada on cod fishing (causing in 1992, the single largest mass layoff in Canadian History), there are signs that the cod are finally beginning to recover.

Glimpses is on its 8th season and has been seen by over 10,000 people.  The show is based upon actual historical events in Lunenburg.  Through songs and vignettes we were given a local trip through time with views into the early settlement of Lunenburg, the rum running that occurred and also the romantic life of the fisherman.  The show was thoroughly entertaining and educational and a great way to finish up our enjoyable visit to Lunenburg.

In the morning we leave for Yarmouth, Nova Scotia with a town motto 'On the Edge of Everywhere'.

Blue Rocks Harbor, Nova Scotia
Blue Rocks, Nova Scotia
Home with Lunenburrg Bump
Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia
Lunenburg Harbor
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
 St. John's Anglican Church 1753
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
 St. John's Anglican Church 1753
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
  St. John's Anglican Church
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
The Stars are not Random, View why The Discovery Channel
St. John's Anglican Church
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
  St. John's Anglican Church
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
 St. John's Anglican Church
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
Location to Play the Tower Bells
Each Bell is a Different Note
 St. John's Anglican Church
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
Shorthorn Sculpin
Fisheries Museum
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
Flounder
Fisheries Museum
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
 
Fisheries Museum
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia
Our Fish Lunch Table is Ready!
We thought this was pretty cute
Lunenburrg, Nova Scotia





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