Monday, November 5, 2018

Fort Smith, Arkansas November 2, 2018

We spent just one night in Fort Smith where we checked out a few things after a day of travel.  In the late 1800’s at the border of what was then the United States and Indian Territory sat Miss Laura’s Social Club.   There were several bordellos there on First Street and Miss Laura Zieglar bought this one in 1898 for $3,000.  Business must have been good as she repaid the bank loan in only 17 months, at a time when the average wage was just $3 per week.  Her girls were known to be well taken care of.  They all had weekly health inspections, were well fed and treated regularly to the Opera by Miss Laura.  The local clothier, the Boston Store, would come to Miss Laura’s (as they did not want these ladies in their store) to sell them the finest dresses.  Miss Laura ran the front office where she would sell a customer a token for $3.  The customer would then take his token to the front parlor that was filled with women, dancing and liquor.  The customer would socialize with the various ladies and then make his choice.  Of the $3 for a trick, the woman got $1, the house or expenses got $1 and Miss Laura profited $1.  Most girls would work an average of just 18 months with Miss Laura.  They would either marry or move on with the money they had saved.  By 1910, there was a lot of pressure in the town to do away with the red-light district.  On January 7, 1910, a fire broke out sending women and their customers running into the street in their undergarments.  Two of the brothels on the street burned to the ground.  This night would forever become known as the lingerie parade.  Seeing that the business future was precarious, Miss Laura decided to sell the business to Berta Gale Dean, known as Big Bertha.  In 1911 Miss Laura got $47,000 for the business!  Prostitution became illegal in 1924.  The house still ran, however, until Bertha’s death in 1948 under the cover of being a ladies boarding house.

In 1817, the U.S. government founded Fort Smith as a western frontier military post.  Today the historic site serves to remind us of many points in history that passed over the Fort Smith grounds.  Trying to keep order in the Wild West, it served as a Fort from 1817-1824 and then again from 1838-1871.  Later from 1872-1896, it was the site of the Federal Court of Judge Isaac C. Parker, who came to be known as the hanging judge.  His legend has since been showcased in movies such as True Grit, Rooster Cogburn and Hang’em High.  While it is true he sentenced more men to hang than any other judge in US history, he also served longer than most judges.  He tried 13,490 cases with 9,454 resulting in convictions.  The law at the time was mandatory hanging for rape and murder. And interestingly, Judge Parker was said to not be a supporter of capital punishment.  In fact, he was bothered by the sensationalism when hangings occurred and had the gallows fenced in to shield the hangings from the view of the general public.  He also was instrumental in building a more human jail.  The jail at the fort would house up to 50 men in one room at a time and the conditions and stench were said to be horrendous. So all in all, Judge Parker in many ways seems to have become a Western Movie Fictional Character, the making of some big box office hits that seem a bit far from the real character that Judge Parker was.

On to Texarkana as we work our way home.


 Miss Laur's Social Club
 The Parlor
Miss Laur's Social Club
 Miss Laur's Social Club
 One of the Girl's Rooms
Miss Laur's Social Club
 Miss Laura's Room
Miss Laur's Social Club
Fort Smith Courthouse and Jail
 Fort Smith Jail
Fort Smith Court House
The Gallows at Fort Smith

Sunday, November 4, 2018

Kansas City, Missouri November 1, 2018

We spent the night in Kansas City Missouri and then drove into Topeka, Kansas to see the Kansas State Capitol.  Every Capitol we have visited has had its own uniqueness and the Kansas State Capitol was no exception.  There are two things that stand out in my mind that make the Kansas Capitol unique.  The first is that there is copper everywhere you look, the stair railings the imprinted columns, and the ceilings to name just a few.  The second is that unlike most Capitol buildings where a rotunda might have been built and then wings added on, this capital built the side wings, one at a time and later added the rotunda.  Most of the murals in this Capitol was commissioned more than 30 years after the completion of the Capitol and some much later than that.  But the highlight for sure is the brilliance of the large amounts of Copper used throughout the building that is especially beautiful after the recently completed 13-year 325 Million Dollar renovation.

The Monroe Elementary School was operated as one of four schools in Topeka for African American children up to 1954.  It is now the site of the Brown vs. Board of Education National Historic Site.   When people think of this court case they think of the 3rd-grade student, Linda Brown.   But the case is more complicated than that.  In 1952 the Supreme Court had several similar cases on its docket that challenged the legality of racially segregated public schools.  At the same time, Linda Brown had to walk through a dangerous rail switch yard to catch a bus that took her to a school 3 miles away, all while there was a white school just a few blocks from her home.  The decision to name Brown at the beginning of a lawsuit that represented 13 clients was due to Linda Brown’s father, a man bringing the suit.  It was felt that having a man at the beginning of the named suit was a better strategy than a woman.  The case took 3 years and on May 31, 1955, the Justices handed down a plan for how it was to proceed; desegregation was to proceed with "all deliberate speed."  All deliberate speed later was an excuse for delaying the implementation of the intentions of the judge.  But the case was important.  It is just sad that it took so long to begin making progress.

Our last visit to the area was in Kansas City.  Ever since I first saw Thomas Benton’s work in the Missouri Capitol, I became an instant fan.  So given a chance to tour his home and also his studio in Kansas City was a no-brainer.  He died at the age of 86 while working in his studio, which today is just as he left it.  At age 33 Benton married one of his art students. They were married for almost 53 years.  She was the financial brains and he was the artist. We found this a bit unusual.  Prior to any painting, he would create a maquette a 3-D model and the depth of what he was going to paint.  Few remain, as he would destroy them once the painting was done, using the materials to create the next maquette.  Many of his paintings depict the life of the common man but also contain many political undertones.  His home we were surprised that it was not updated over the years.  That said we had never seen a fireplace at the entry and a staircase above that wrapped around this centerpiece.  We both thought this was beautifully done.

On to Fort Smith.

 Kansas State Capitol Today (completed 1903)
First Wing built 1873
Kansas State Capitol
 Second Wing Built 1880
Kansas State Capitol
Kansas State Capitol
 Kansas State Capitol
 Arthur Capper, Newspaper Publisher
Kansas State Capitol
Dwight D. Eisenhower
Kansas State Capitol
 Kansas State Capitol
 Tragic Prelude
By John Steuart Curry
This famous painting made a legend of 
John Brown, and included Coronado and Padre Padilla
Kansas State Capitol
Platycarpus
in Governor's Office
 Kansas State Capitol
 Governor's Office
 Kansas State Capitol
 Law Office
 Kansas State Capitol
Senate
Kansas State Capitol
Supreme Court
 Kansas State Capitol
  First Dawn of Liberty
Kansas State Capitol
 House of Representatives
 Kansas State Capitol
 Kansas State Capitol
 Brown vs. Board
by Michael Young
Kansas State Capitol
 Monroe Elementary School
Brown VS. Board of Education National Park

 Brown VS. Board of Education National Park
Actual Kindergarten Classroom of Linda Brown
Brown VS. Board of Education National Park
 Linda Brown (kindergarten class), last row, fourth from the right
Brown VS. Board of Education National Park
 Mural outside of
Brown VS. Board of Education National Park
Thomas Benton Home
Rita and Thomas
Thomas Benton Home
The Art Studio
Thomas Benton Home
Thomas Benton Home
A Marquette
Thomas Benton Home
Entry to  Thomas Benton Home
Upstairs looking down to the entry
Thomas Benton Home

Saturday, November 3, 2018

Des Moines, Iowa October 30, 2018

The Iowa State Capitol in Des Moines is easily seen from any place within the city.  Dedicated in the 1880s, the impressive Renaissance-style architecture provides a panoramic view west of downtown Des Moines.  It has a unique 5 dome structure that covers a very ornate interior.  The interior liberally incorporates 29 types of marble, 12 types of native Iowa woods and 24 fireplaces.  Bright chandeliers hold a commanding presence in both the House and Senate Chambers.  The multi-story Victorian-style library features various grand spiral staircases that surround a central reference area atrium.  While visiting this Capitol we did the climb to the top of the dome. My issue was not with climbing the stairs, but rather my fear of heights set in as we maneuvered our way around the rather narrow walkway at the top of the dome.  Even though I never actually looked out it was challenging for me and something that I personally would not repeat.  Our tour contained all sorts of interesting details and this capitol probably makes our top five list of Capitols we have been to.

After visiting the Capitol we had lunch and then walked off our lunch at the Pappajohn Sculpture Park.  The park is named for John and Mary Pappajohn, a Des Moines couple, who have given the 24 sculptures — valued at some $40 million — to the community through the Des Moines Art Center. 

Corn Fields at Sunrise
Des Moines, Iowa
Des Moines City Skyline
Des Moines State Capitol
Now that's different
Des Moines State Capitol
Des Moines State Capitol
Des Moines State Capitol
 Des Moines State Capitol
 Des Moines State Capitol
Law Library
Des Moines State Capitol
Governor's Office
Des Moines State Capitol
Master Clock that Runs Several Slave Clocks
the slave clocks sadly have black clock faces
Des Moines State Capitol
Supreme Court
Des Moines State Capitol
Des Moines State Capitol
Des Moines State Capitol
House of Representatives
Des Moines State Capitol
Senate
Des Moines State Capitol
View at the Top of the Dome
Des Moines State Capitol
Artist: Yoshitomo Nara Heritage

Title: White Ghost Date: 2010
Pappajohn Sculpture Garden
Artist: Jaume Plensa

Title: Nomade
Pappajohn Sculpture Garden
Artist: Ugo Rondinone

Title: MOONRISE. east. january
Pappajohn Sculpture Garden